Vanlife Weekly: Harvest Roads Through Michigan’s Upper Peninsula

Mid-September in the Upper Peninsula feels like a hinge between seasons. The days are still warm enough for lake swims, but the nights have turned crisp, and roadside stands now sell pumpkins alongside pasties. This week I steered the van along the southern shore of Lake Superior, stringing together small towns, forest campgrounds, and quiet lakeside pullouts.

Trip Map

Marquette → Munising → Grand Marais → Tahquamenon Falls State Park → Whitefish Point.

Camps & Parking

• Presque Isle Campground (Marquette): Tucked among pines with easy access to Lake Superior beaches. Reserve early—locals love it.

• Bay Furnace Campground (Munising): National Forest site with lake views, vault toilets, and first-come-first-served sites.

• Hurricane River Campground (near Grand Marais): Inside Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, with trail access to historic lighthouses.

• Tahquamenon Falls Rivermouth Campground: State park site with modern amenities and strong cell signal.

Note: Dispersed camping is available in Hiawatha National Forest, but some roads get muddy after autumn rains. Always scout on foot before driving in.

Daily Rhythm

• Mornings: Brewed coffee by the lakeshore, then a mix of trail hikes and a few work hours tethered to patchy but workable LTE.

• Midday: Scenic drives between small towns, picking up groceries or local smoked fish. Lunch often on the go at roadside overlooks.

• Afternoons: Paddleboard sessions on calm bays or visits to waterfalls like Miners Falls. On work-heavy days, I parked in library lots for dependable Wi-Fi.

• Evenings: Campfire dinners, walks along sandy beaches, and stargazing—the Milky Way was sharp and clear on moonless nights.

Meals & Coffee

• Breakfasts: Oats with cinnamon and dried cherries, a nod to Michigan’s cherry harvest.

• Lunches: Whitefish sandwiches from a Munising smokehouse, plus homemade coleslaw in the van.

• Dinners:

  • Camp chili with beans, tomato, and venison bought locally.

  • Foil-packet potatoes roasted in campfire coals.

• Coffee stops: Contrast Coffee (Marquette) had strong Wi-Fi and beans to-go. Falling Rock Café (Munising) doubled as both coffee shop and used bookstore.

Tip: Carry a thermos for hot drinks—lakeshore winds in September are sharp, even on sunny afternoons.

Budget (USD)

• Campgrounds: $74 (3 state/national park nights)

• Fuel: $96 (long distances between towns, plus forest detours)

• Groceries: $61

• Coffee & dining out: $38

• Park entry (Pictured Rocks, 7-day pass): $20Total: $289

Gear I Loved

• Paddleboard: Perfect for exploring calm inlets on Lake Superior.

• Propane camp stove: Reliable when campfires weren’t allowed on windy nights.

• Wool beanie: Essential for chilly mornings and late-night stargazing.

• Portable solar panel: Kept devices topped off during days without hookups.

• Headlamp: Key for night hikes to falls and beach walks after sunset.

Lessons Learned

• Weather shifts fast. A calm morning can turn to 20 mph winds by afternoon—secure gear and check marine forecasts if paddling.

• Cell service is patchy. Towns usually had decent coverage, but forest sites often dropped to zero. Download maps and prep offline work.

• Wildlife is active. Black bears roam near campgrounds; store food in sealed containers and never leave scraps outside.

• Daylight is shrinking. By mid-September, dark falls around 7:30 PM—plan drives and setups accordingly.